Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Something Wicked This Way Comes
Sunday, June 13, 2010
That Night At Mondays - From the unpublished files of The Alpha Male
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
I Love My Netflix Nights!
For the second time in as many weeks I’ve been asked what my favorite brand is and why. This may seem like a simple question, but for me it’s just not that easy. I have a habit of compartmentalizing my life into different categories, large and small and then I break them down into subsets. Now I know what you’re thinking, “this man is far too anal;” and maybe I am, but this keeps me sane. You see, I have a very overactive imagination and if left unchecked or mismanaged, I’d wind up like those lost souls you see wandering the streets wearing 12 coats and a skully at the Taste of Chicago, or delivering Hamlet’s opening monologue to a gang of pigeons.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
What Knot to Wear
Your tie choice can make or break your outfit. In some cases it can even affect how you’re viewed in business situations, on a date, an interview or at an event. Certain colors and patterns can convey different messages about the wearer—even their decision making ability. Because they are primary colors, red yellow and blue are hues used for power ties, with red and blue leading the way. Take notice of public officials, especially President Obama, he nearly always wears a red tie for important meetings, press conferences and addresses.
I base my choice on the color pallet of my suite and shirt, the occasion, day of the week, who I may be meeting with and what about. Typically, I’ll make sure that all three share similar shades and no one element overpowers the other. I also take into account whether or not I have the right pocket square to seal the deal. Now that all the elements are standing by, it’s time to opt for the perfect knot; another key component in completing my ensemble.
There are four commonly used knots to prevaricate when tying a necktie, and if you factor in bow ties or ascots it gives you six options. I first learned how to tie a tie from my Boy Scout Handbook. There was a diagram displaying the proper technique for the Four-in-Hand Knot. Traditionally, this has been the most popular type of knot and one of the easiest to learn. That being said, it’s also the one that gets butchered by most men. This elongated knot is straight and if not correctly executed can appear somewhat uneven.
If you don’t take your time tying any knot, especially the Four-in-Hand, you’ll get what looks like a piece of rigatoni perched atop a collard green. Governor Quinn is horrendously guilty of this transgression. His ties look as if he tied them in the dark with his eyes shut while wearing oven mitts. The Four-in-Hand works well with most shirt collar styles except for the full spread collar; and unless you are particularly adept at tying it perfectly I wouldn’t suggest you try this combination.
The second knot learned to tie was the full Windsor. This is a more formal knot and generally worn with a full spread collar shirts. This knot shaped like an upside down pyramid, is very wide and it takes a lot of fabric to effect. The Windsor has seen resurgence lately among more youthful men trying to emulate their young mogul contemporaries like Jay-Z, Ditty and Kanye West. Personally, I’m not a fan of the trend. The Windsor knot is too immense for these men who don’t have the neck to support such a broad knot. Some local reporters have adopted this look and it’s very distracting. The full Windsor throws everything off, and instead of looking polished it degrades your appearance and makes you look more like Hommie The Clown than a sharp man about town. This is especially true for Jay-Z who often wears exaggerated spread collared shirts with a colossal knot. It looks like a fist is about to thump him dead in his jaw.
When I wore the Windsor it was usually with a double-breasted suit and spread collar shirt. I usually opted for this combination for special events only. My great uncles used to wear them all the time and I didn’t understand why until I was older. They were from British Guyana, in South America, and heavily influenced by English and European styles, so for them the Windsor was their go to knot. I abandoned the Windsor when I went away to school. It was a look that had become dated and wasn’t well suited for the very narrow or knit ties that were popular in the 80’s. On a related note, the 80’s width has also made a comeback and unless you’re rail thin or Ryan Seacrest, this is one throwback you want to leave way back where it was.
The third knot I learned is the one I use the most. Within the last decade I discovered the Half-Windsor, a medium triangular knot that’s less ceremonial than its sibling the full Windsor, but a little more polished than the old stand-bye, the Four-in-Hand. It works with all collar styles that accommodate ties, and can go from 9 to 5, after 5 and after 6 events that don’t require traditional black tie clothing. I love this knot because for me it’s very versatile and always looks sharp. It gives me a more polished look and shows that I pay attention to detail and care about my appearance.
While researching this piece I found yet a forth option. It’s called The Pratt or Selby Knot. This one is new to me and I fail see the appeal of this selection. According to totieatie.com, it’s described as an average sized knot that’s larger than the Four-in-Hand and smaller than a half Windsor. It doesn’t look too wide or narrow. The Pratt knot looks neat and is suitable for most shirts and occasions. The drawback is that the back of the narrow end of the tie faces up, which does not look good if it is not well hidden behind the wide end. I tried tying one and couldn’t really get it to work right. I didn’t like the way it looked and since I no longer wear the Four-in-Hand, it isn’t a viable alternative for me.
There are a few final points to reflect on when considering this essential part of your wardrobe. Unless you’re in security, or required to wear a uniform, steer clear of clip-on ties. The clip on tie is unprofessional and makes a mockery of the effort you’ve put into creating your look. Zip ties are a diminutive option to the clip-on, but except for those who have medical conditions preventing them from forming their own knot; tie it yourself. The front of your tie should be long enough so that the point comes to the top or bottom of your belt buckle. When considering a tie, take into consideration your skin tone, facial structure and collar style. Try the different knots and find the one that works best for you.
The knot and collar should be proportional to each other. You don’t want the knot to overwhelm, or get lost in the collar. Texture is important as well. Silk is best, but there are times when other fabrics like cotton, wool even leather are appropriate. Take a chance on pairing stripes with plaids. When done correctly, it can add an almost couture impression to your ensemble. Take a look at ads or photo spreads in magazines like GQ, Esquire, Men’s Vogue, Complex, Vibe, Black Enterprise, etc.; they’ll give you some ideas on how to make it work for you.
Learn how to tie a bow tie. It’s been a while, but I used to own several and wore them on a regular basis. The bow tie is another animal altogether and really takes some skill and effort to execute. The best part about the bow tie is when it’s worn with formal wear. At the end of the night when it’s time to wind down with your significant other; the untied bow hanging down adds some points to your sex appeal cache.
Finally if you want your ties to last, do not leave them tied and have them dry cleaned once a quarter. By all means, take your time when tying your tie; it’s the only way you’ll be able to acquire the perfect shape and that all important dimple that sets apart the haves from the have knot.
Now Let It Breathe.
Pants On The Ground
Trends That Need To Die #1: Saggin.
As I drive down the street, go to the grocery store, sometimes even in church, I see young men and some older cats that truly should know better, participating in a trend that really needs to die. I’m talking about saggin’. Saggin’ is the practice of wearing your pants well below your waist down across the middle of your butt. Not only does it look silly but it shows the world that either you’ve done time; about to catch a case or you’re ready for some “deep impact”. Saggin’ is not fashionable and those who perpetrate by perpetuating this trend are nothing more than mindless lemmings being led to certain death; metaphorically and in some cases quite literally. Think about it. If you’re on the block supposedly handling your “business” and something goes down, how quickly can you respond if you have to pull up ya pants before you break out? You can’t.
This unlikely fashion trend has even sparked a music career for 62 year old activist General Larry Platt. You remember him; the old dude that appeared on American Idol, performing his own original song, "Pants on the Ground". Unfortunately, Platt was ineligible to continue, due to being well over the show's 28 years old age limit. His performance went viral and even inspired perennial AARP eligible quarterback Bret Favre to burst into song following a tough win.
Saggin is a control technique originating in criminal justice system. Most prisons don’t allow belts or anything else that can be used as a potential weapon or as a noose. It’s a way to keep prisoners in line and prevents them from harming themselves or other inmates. Sagging pants also keeps those that are fleet of foot from running away. Why do you think most wear orange jumpsuits or scrubs and slip on sneakers? I’ve also read that it’s the way for openly gay convicts advertise their preference. If your pants are already half down, it won’t take much to serve up the rest. I guess that’s being locked down and on the down low.
When I see young brothas tugging at their pants, trying to keep them from falling to the ground it reminds me of women trying to keep the back of their skirts from flapping up while they walk. Better yet, a toddler running to mommy with their pull-ups lingering about the ankles. Either way it’s just plain silly and if you knew how ridiculous you looked you’d pull up your pants. I’m not alone in this reflection; there are cause groups on Facebook urging members to sign a petition against the practice telling “saggers” to just pull up your pants. I know trends come and go, but this is one that never should have happened and it’s been around far too long.
When you have to constantly pull your pants up to keep them from falling down or grip your jock to hold them up in the front, why bother? If you think so much of your draws just wear them and nothing else. Hold up, strike that; there are already too many women walking around in nasty pajama bottoms and tap pants in public, I don’t want to encourage men to do the same. I mean, have our youth gotten so lazy that they can’t even bother getting fully dressed? Is it too much trouble to pull up your pants put on a shirt—all the way and buy a belt?
I remember my father telling me to make sure I had a belt on no matter what. He’d say, “You don’t want your slacks falling down do you?” I didn’t and I acted accordingly. Now days it seems like looking as if you’ve spent time in “
And it is; the point is at the top of that fitted dunce cap you should be sportin’ with ya saggin jams, white tee, flip-flops with knee socks and checkered scarf when it’s 90° in the shade. Just remember to rock to the side.
I finally decided to write about this topic because I’m just sick and tired of seeing it wherever I go and when I got a text message that can best be summed up like this. If you take saggin’ and flip it backwards what do you get?
Still think it’s cool? Ok, see ya get back from
Now Let It Breathe.
Head Games

In the January 2008, GQ Magazine published an excellent feature on hats, asserting that, “Yes, hats are back.” The piece then went on to ask this question of its readers, “Do you know a fedora from a porkpie?” Chances are most didn’t and still don’t. In light of this men’s accessory making a resplendent comeback, I pose that very same query to you now. For years it seemed as if there were only three types of hats men would still wear. There was the ball cap, a true American staple and worn by men and women of all ages. The ball cap is so popular because of its relationship with sports and the service industry. It’s a way to show team spirit and to advertise your company or business. In recent years, couture brands like Von Dutch and Ed Hardy, in addition to iconic marks Gucci, Louis Vitton, Polo and others have literally thrown their hats in the ring, jacking up the price and elevating the cache of this simple staple.
Then there’s the skully, skull or watch cap. This style is more of a necessity than accessory, although much like its cousin the ball cap, it too has been invited to the ball. The skull cap is worn to keep us warm. Anyone who lives in Chicago and has experienced the Hawk, you know you need a hat to keep the chill at bay. Those who brave the elements here, without one, are either too vein, in denial or just plain bananas. Watch caps are standard issue for most troops stationed on cold weather campaigns. More and more I see people wearing skullys in warmer climates. I’m really not sure what the point of that is, but hey to each is own. Thirdly there’s the driving cap, which in some configurations is also known as a newsboy. The difference is that the newsboy cap has a larger diameter. The driving cap is very versatile. It can be worn traditionally, or tipped to either side or Samuel L. Jackson style—flipped to the back. That’s the way I like to wear mine. Depending on the fabric, driving caps are an all season option; wool or corduroy during autumn and winter and cotton, silk or other lighter fabrics for spring and summer.
Hip Hop bohemian and Chicago native Common rocks a newsboy like no one else. Other than a skullcap, the newsboy is part of his persona. Common doesn’t just wear his hats; he tailors a lyrical contour, making it an extension of his velvety flow. Starting by cocking it slightly to one side, he adds a modest tilt then bends the brim downward all to create a splendid upward curl with the crown. It’s a look that’s copied by other entertainers and some manage to pull it off, but most don’t have the swagger needed to give it that thump of urban authenticity. The fishing or bucket hat gets an honorable mention but it’s another one that can make you look silly if worn under erroneous circumstances.
That little black hat you see perched atop Joe Jackson‘s bean is called a Trillby. The Trillby is basically a petite version of a fedora with a stingy brim. This style gained popularity over the past few years thanks to boy banders like Justin Timberlake and rockers like Pete Doherty. It’s the training wheel of hats, a great jump off for hipsters or older cats new to the game. More recently the trillby has become a female favorite as well. Next is the fedora. The fedora is a timeless classic. When you think fedora, think Bill Cosby, Steve Harvey, Frank Sinatra, your pops or granddaddy. This is the Caddy of caps. It goes great with suits, sweaters and is a must have if you’re serious about haberdashery. The fedora has a wide brim, a sharp crease down the center of the crown and dimples on each side. You can find them in felt, straw and even leather. When worn properly, the fedora will set off any well suited ensemble. Similarly there’s the panama. Panama hats are akin to lightweight fedoras but are usually woven from toquilla straw originating from iraca plants. Some panamas will have rounded crowns and may or may not have the customary pinches found on fedoras.
Following the fedora is the porkpie. If you remember Ron from the ‘Cosby Show’ spin-off, ‘A Different World’, then you’ll know the porkpie. Ron nearly always wore one and he looked good in it. The porkpie has a crown that resembles a round cake or deep dish pie pan and a flat brim that’s often turned up on all sides. It was a favorite of the musicians in the Spike Lee Joint, ‘Mo Betta Blues’ and remains a style largely popularized by jazz artists, clean cut preppies and oddly enough according to GQ, Jamaican “rude-boy rebels”. Ire mon.
When you go to the state fair, carnivals or watch footage of old political conventions you’ll see a hat that looks a lot like the porkpie but it’s actually called a boater. The boater is fashioned from thick baked straw with a flat firm brim and tri-color band around the crown. It was once a favorite of barbershop quartets and turn of the century sportsmen engaging in polite games of croquet or horseshoes, the boater remains more of a novelty than a truly viable fashion alternative. Andre 3000 manages to pull this off, but he’s an enigma. I’d forgo the boater if you want to be taken seriously and not look like some relic from the dust bowl.
Finally, with the passing of Michael Jackson, we’ve been seeing a lot more of his family on the news and in print. Mike loved hats; he wore them all the time, not only as extensions of his unique style, but they bore a functional purpose as well. He wore them to protect his face and scalp from the sun. We’ve seen his father balancing a trillby on his head and now it seems that Tito has gotten into the act by sporting a bowler. He looks even sillier in his bowler than his father does in that tiny trillby. Bowlers have a bulbous crown, turned up brim and almost always come in black felt. This is a style that should be left to those across the pond in jolly old England. Tito looks like he should be feeding nuts to a monkey cranking an organ grinder. Clearly Michael’s fashion sense didn’t rub off on his pops or older brother. Joe should stick to a fedora, possibly a newsboy and Tito could actually play the porkpie, fedora, newsboy or skully quite well. Take my advice guys, make that change.
Whether you use them when you’re dressing up or dressing down, try incorporating hats into your wardrobe. It’s defiantly an upgrade to your game and can take you from spectator to player once you’ve found the style that’s right for you. Remember, in the words of Ben Goorin, President of Goorin Brothers in San Francisco, “A hat allows a man to make a statement without saying a word.”
Choose wisely my friends.
Now Let It Breathe.







