I love neckties. I don’t wear one everyday but when I do, I take great care in choosing the right one. It starts with me deciding if I’m going to wear a suit or just a pair of slacks. I’ll stand in front of my closet staring into it as if I’m waiting for some annoying salesmen to sneak up behind me offering his assistance. Once the choice is made, my attention then shifts to shirts. After I’ve paired the suit and shirt it’s time to find a tie. The suit goes on the bed, then the shirt, placing it under one side of the jacket; a technique I picked up while working in retail years ago. I’ll pull out up to four then one by one pace each under the neck of the shirt, closing the jacket, stepping back to study my options. All this may seem like a big production, especially for a man, but for men the necktie is one of the best ways to express individuality through your wardrobe.
Your tie choice can make or break your outfit. In some cases it can even affect how you’re viewed in business situations, on a date, an interview or at an event. Certain colors and patterns can convey different messages about the wearer—even their decision making ability. Because they are primary colors, red yellow and blue are hues used for power ties, with red and blue leading the way. Take notice of public officials, especially President Obama, he nearly always wears a red tie for important meetings, press conferences and addresses.
I base my choice on the color pallet of my suite and shirt, the occasion, day of the week, who I may be meeting with and what about. Typically, I’ll make sure that all three share similar shades and no one element overpowers the other. I also take into account whether or not I have the right pocket square to seal the deal. Now that all the elements are standing by, it’s time to opt for the perfect knot; another key component in completing my ensemble.
There are four commonly used knots to prevaricate when tying a necktie, and if you factor in bow ties or ascots it gives you six options. I first learned how to tie a tie from my Boy Scout Handbook. There was a diagram displaying the proper technique for the Four-in-Hand Knot. Traditionally, this has been the most popular type of knot and one of the easiest to learn. That being said, it’s also the one that gets butchered by most men. This elongated knot is straight and if not correctly executed can appear somewhat uneven.
If you don’t take your time tying any knot, especially the Four-in-Hand, you’ll get what looks like a piece of rigatoni perched atop a collard green. Governor Quinn is horrendously guilty of this transgression. His ties look as if he tied them in the dark with his eyes shut while wearing oven mitts. The Four-in-Hand works well with most shirt collar styles except for the full spread collar; and unless you are particularly adept at tying it perfectly I wouldn’t suggest you try this combination.
The second knot learned to tie was the full Windsor. This is a more formal knot and generally worn with a full spread collar shirts. This knot shaped like an upside down pyramid, is very wide and it takes a lot of fabric to effect. The Windsor has seen resurgence lately among more youthful men trying to emulate their young mogul contemporaries like Jay-Z, Ditty and Kanye West. Personally, I’m not a fan of the trend. The Windsor knot is too immense for these men who don’t have the neck to support such a broad knot. Some local reporters have adopted this look and it’s very distracting. The full Windsor throws everything off, and instead of looking polished it degrades your appearance and makes you look more like Hommie The Clown than a sharp man about town. This is especially true for Jay-Z who often wears exaggerated spread collared shirts with a colossal knot. It looks like a fist is about to thump him dead in his jaw.
When I wore the Windsor it was usually with a double-breasted suit and spread collar shirt. I usually opted for this combination for special events only. My great uncles used to wear them all the time and I didn’t understand why until I was older. They were from British Guyana, in South America, and heavily influenced by English and European styles, so for them the Windsor was their go to knot. I abandoned the Windsor when I went away to school. It was a look that had become dated and wasn’t well suited for the very narrow or knit ties that were popular in the 80’s. On a related note, the 80’s width has also made a comeback and unless you’re rail thin or Ryan Seacrest, this is one throwback you want to leave way back where it was.
The third knot I learned is the one I use the most. Within the last decade I discovered the Half-Windsor, a medium triangular knot that’s less ceremonial than its sibling the full Windsor, but a little more polished than the old stand-bye, the Four-in-Hand. It works with all collar styles that accommodate ties, and can go from 9 to 5, after 5 and after 6 events that don’t require traditional black tie clothing. I love this knot because for me it’s very versatile and always looks sharp. It gives me a more polished look and shows that I pay attention to detail and care about my appearance.
While researching this piece I found yet a forth option. It’s called The Pratt or Selby Knot. This one is new to me and I fail see the appeal of this selection. According to totieatie.com, it’s described as an average sized knot that’s larger than the Four-in-Hand and smaller than a half Windsor. It doesn’t look too wide or narrow. The Pratt knot looks neat and is suitable for most shirts and occasions. The drawback is that the back of the narrow end of the tie faces up, which does not look good if it is not well hidden behind the wide end. I tried tying one and couldn’t really get it to work right. I didn’t like the way it looked and since I no longer wear the Four-in-Hand, it isn’t a viable alternative for me.
There are a few final points to reflect on when considering this essential part of your wardrobe. Unless you’re in security, or required to wear a uniform, steer clear of clip-on ties. The clip on tie is unprofessional and makes a mockery of the effort you’ve put into creating your look. Zip ties are a diminutive option to the clip-on, but except for those who have medical conditions preventing them from forming their own knot; tie it yourself. The front of your tie should be long enough so that the point comes to the top or bottom of your belt buckle. When considering a tie, take into consideration your skin tone, facial structure and collar style. Try the different knots and find the one that works best for you.
The knot and collar should be proportional to each other. You don’t want the knot to overwhelm, or get lost in the collar. Texture is important as well. Silk is best, but there are times when other fabrics like cotton, wool even leather are appropriate. Take a chance on pairing stripes with plaids. When done correctly, it can add an almost couture impression to your ensemble. Take a look at ads or photo spreads in magazines like GQ, Esquire, Men’s Vogue, Complex, Vibe, Black Enterprise, etc.; they’ll give you some ideas on how to make it work for you.
Learn how to tie a bow tie. It’s been a while, but I used to own several and wore them on a regular basis. The bow tie is another animal altogether and really takes some skill and effort to execute. The best part about the bow tie is when it’s worn with formal wear. At the end of the night when it’s time to wind down with your significant other; the untied bow hanging down adds some points to your sex appeal cache.
Finally if you want your ties to last, do not leave them tied and have them dry cleaned once a quarter. By all means, take your time when tying your tie; it’s the only way you’ll be able to acquire the perfect shape and that all important dimple that sets apart the haves from the have knot.
Now Let It Breathe.
Your tie choice can make or break your outfit. In some cases it can even affect how you’re viewed in business situations, on a date, an interview or at an event. Certain colors and patterns can convey different messages about the wearer—even their decision making ability. Because they are primary colors, red yellow and blue are hues used for power ties, with red and blue leading the way. Take notice of public officials, especially President Obama, he nearly always wears a red tie for important meetings, press conferences and addresses.
I base my choice on the color pallet of my suite and shirt, the occasion, day of the week, who I may be meeting with and what about. Typically, I’ll make sure that all three share similar shades and no one element overpowers the other. I also take into account whether or not I have the right pocket square to seal the deal. Now that all the elements are standing by, it’s time to opt for the perfect knot; another key component in completing my ensemble.
There are four commonly used knots to prevaricate when tying a necktie, and if you factor in bow ties or ascots it gives you six options. I first learned how to tie a tie from my Boy Scout Handbook. There was a diagram displaying the proper technique for the Four-in-Hand Knot. Traditionally, this has been the most popular type of knot and one of the easiest to learn. That being said, it’s also the one that gets butchered by most men. This elongated knot is straight and if not correctly executed can appear somewhat uneven.
If you don’t take your time tying any knot, especially the Four-in-Hand, you’ll get what looks like a piece of rigatoni perched atop a collard green. Governor Quinn is horrendously guilty of this transgression. His ties look as if he tied them in the dark with his eyes shut while wearing oven mitts. The Four-in-Hand works well with most shirt collar styles except for the full spread collar; and unless you are particularly adept at tying it perfectly I wouldn’t suggest you try this combination.
The second knot learned to tie was the full Windsor. This is a more formal knot and generally worn with a full spread collar shirts. This knot shaped like an upside down pyramid, is very wide and it takes a lot of fabric to effect. The Windsor has seen resurgence lately among more youthful men trying to emulate their young mogul contemporaries like Jay-Z, Ditty and Kanye West. Personally, I’m not a fan of the trend. The Windsor knot is too immense for these men who don’t have the neck to support such a broad knot. Some local reporters have adopted this look and it’s very distracting. The full Windsor throws everything off, and instead of looking polished it degrades your appearance and makes you look more like Hommie The Clown than a sharp man about town. This is especially true for Jay-Z who often wears exaggerated spread collared shirts with a colossal knot. It looks like a fist is about to thump him dead in his jaw.
When I wore the Windsor it was usually with a double-breasted suit and spread collar shirt. I usually opted for this combination for special events only. My great uncles used to wear them all the time and I didn’t understand why until I was older. They were from British Guyana, in South America, and heavily influenced by English and European styles, so for them the Windsor was their go to knot. I abandoned the Windsor when I went away to school. It was a look that had become dated and wasn’t well suited for the very narrow or knit ties that were popular in the 80’s. On a related note, the 80’s width has also made a comeback and unless you’re rail thin or Ryan Seacrest, this is one throwback you want to leave way back where it was.
The third knot I learned is the one I use the most. Within the last decade I discovered the Half-Windsor, a medium triangular knot that’s less ceremonial than its sibling the full Windsor, but a little more polished than the old stand-bye, the Four-in-Hand. It works with all collar styles that accommodate ties, and can go from 9 to 5, after 5 and after 6 events that don’t require traditional black tie clothing. I love this knot because for me it’s very versatile and always looks sharp. It gives me a more polished look and shows that I pay attention to detail and care about my appearance.
While researching this piece I found yet a forth option. It’s called The Pratt or Selby Knot. This one is new to me and I fail see the appeal of this selection. According to totieatie.com, it’s described as an average sized knot that’s larger than the Four-in-Hand and smaller than a half Windsor. It doesn’t look too wide or narrow. The Pratt knot looks neat and is suitable for most shirts and occasions. The drawback is that the back of the narrow end of the tie faces up, which does not look good if it is not well hidden behind the wide end. I tried tying one and couldn’t really get it to work right. I didn’t like the way it looked and since I no longer wear the Four-in-Hand, it isn’t a viable alternative for me.
There are a few final points to reflect on when considering this essential part of your wardrobe. Unless you’re in security, or required to wear a uniform, steer clear of clip-on ties. The clip on tie is unprofessional and makes a mockery of the effort you’ve put into creating your look. Zip ties are a diminutive option to the clip-on, but except for those who have medical conditions preventing them from forming their own knot; tie it yourself. The front of your tie should be long enough so that the point comes to the top or bottom of your belt buckle. When considering a tie, take into consideration your skin tone, facial structure and collar style. Try the different knots and find the one that works best for you.
The knot and collar should be proportional to each other. You don’t want the knot to overwhelm, or get lost in the collar. Texture is important as well. Silk is best, but there are times when other fabrics like cotton, wool even leather are appropriate. Take a chance on pairing stripes with plaids. When done correctly, it can add an almost couture impression to your ensemble. Take a look at ads or photo spreads in magazines like GQ, Esquire, Men’s Vogue, Complex, Vibe, Black Enterprise, etc.; they’ll give you some ideas on how to make it work for you.
Learn how to tie a bow tie. It’s been a while, but I used to own several and wore them on a regular basis. The bow tie is another animal altogether and really takes some skill and effort to execute. The best part about the bow tie is when it’s worn with formal wear. At the end of the night when it’s time to wind down with your significant other; the untied bow hanging down adds some points to your sex appeal cache.
Finally if you want your ties to last, do not leave them tied and have them dry cleaned once a quarter. By all means, take your time when tying your tie; it’s the only way you’ll be able to acquire the perfect shape and that all important dimple that sets apart the haves from the have knot.
Now Let It Breathe.
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ReplyDeleteThis is an extensive amount of information about the art of ties. Even though there's not a single tie in my wardrobe, it is fascinating to read about how this ubiquitous piece of men's clothing can have a tremendous influence on how one is perceived. I think in the end, it's all about the attitude--whatever tie one wears, if carried with confidence, could quickly alter perceptions.
ReplyDeleteI was not aware that so much thought went into choosing a tie. When I was younger, I often wondered if men felt restricted or choked. My respect for ties grew when I learned how to tie one. My favorite combo is the dark charcoal grey suit with a silky deep lavendar tie. Not sure what it translates to...but I do know what I like.
ReplyDeleteOne day soon I want to substantially improve my tie game, and I know for a fact that I've likely butchered my share of four-in-hand knots. Hope once I can get the wardrobe for it, that I'll become as serious (and educated) about it as you obviously are. Great posting.
ReplyDeleteB